Last year one of my customers, Lisa, saw an outfit made by another designer using floral and stripe coordinating fabrics. She really liked the combination of florals and stripes so she went shopping for something similar. She found this combo.
We worked together to come up with a design she would like. Lisa likes full, tiered skirts and long tops. Tiered skirts are fun and easy to make, especially if you have a serger.
The skirt we decided upon has 2 tiers. The finished skirt needed to be 20″ and my customer wanted a deep ruffle on the bottom. I cut 2 pieces 12×45″ for the top layer and 4 pieces 11×45″ for the bottom tier. It is much easier to make these skirts if the bottom layer is twice as wide as the top because the serger will gather the bottom to the top in a ration of about 2 to 1.
Sew the 2 upper tier pieces together on 1 side making 1 long piece. Sew the 4 bottom tier pieces together in the same manner-leave open on one side. I always leave 1 side open because it makes gathering easier. To use the serger to gather these 2 pieces together you will need a gathering foot.
Set the differential to 2.0 and the increase the length of the stitch to 4. The bottom layer goes under the gathering foot right side up-the feed dogs will pull this fabric through and gather it as it attaches to the upper layer. So bottom layer goes right side up.
The top layer is inserted between the 2 pieces of the gathering foot right side down-so the right sides are together.
After the 2 layers have been gathered together I always sew the pieces together again just below the bottom serger thread for add reinforcement. This makes a sturdy seam and a smooth finish.
To make the elastic waist I cut a piece of 3/4″ elastic 1″ smaller than the person’s waist and sew the 2 ends together to form a circle.
Fold the top of the skirt over 1 1/2″ and press-then stitch close to the fold. Turn under a tiny hem on the inside of the folded edge or serge the edge.
Insert the elastic inside the casing and stitch along the bottom fold or serged edge.
When the entire waistband is sewn down lift the skirt by the elastic waist and pull the 2 side seams apart to evenly distribute the gathers.
To keep the elastic from twisting in the waistband at each side seam stitch through the waistband and elastic at the casing only.
I also use my serger to gather the ruffled sleeves. The serger keeps the ruffles even and smooth and it is much easier than using the long gathering stitches most patterns recommend.
After the sleeve is gathered I atttach it to the shirt.
The outfit is finished and in the mail and I think it really came out cute. I am not sure if I like the long ruffle on the skirt or the short one.
Sure hope Lisa and her sweet daughter like the finished product.
Most of the designs I blog about are custom creations-if you see something you like or I can help you with a custom creation please contact me here.